04 November 2013

Brisket Roasted in a Toaster Oven.

My love affair with BBQ began at 23 when I bought my first grill and a copy of Cook's Illustrated "Summer Grilling". I learned that with patience, a little bit of technique, a great dry rub, and some smoking chips, you can make anything taste fantastic on a grill. Over the years, I have adapted their recipes and made them my own, and graduated on to bigger and tougher cuts of meat. There is nothing quite as delicious as a 12-pound brisket that has been slowly smoking for 16 hours over mesquite charcoal. The melt-in-your-mouth tender, smokey brisket with slightly salty, slightly spicey, slightly sweet rub has been a hit at many backyard BBQs that I have thrown. Yum.


Unfortunately, the Danish style of BBQ is BYOM (bring your own meat)! The host provides a hot grill and sides (usually bread and salad), and you bring your choice of meat and drinks. This does not really inspire the slow smoked BBQing that I am used to doing. So, I have improvised my brisket recipe to be done in a kitchen, or more specifically in my toaster oven.


Cooking brisket in the oven is surprisingly simple and tastes remarkably similar to the slow smoked BBQ version. The only thing missing is the char on the fat and the beauty and taste of a smoke ring that only develops after hours on the grill. Still, on a cold rainy Danish autumn day like today, oven brisket tastes heavenly.


To start, we need the brisket (oksespidsbryst) and spices for our dry rub. Look for a cut of brisket that has some fat on top and seems to have two layers of muscle on the side. Larger cuts will cook better than smaller cuts. I usually choose a 1-2 kg (2-4.5 lbs) brisket (0.3 kg (0.6 lbs) per person. It shrinks a lot!) and hope for leftovers for sandwiches and salads.


To make the dry rub, we combine (clockwise from the top) black pepper, white sugar, brown sugar, oregano, thyme, cumin, coriander, chipotle pepper, paprika, and salt (center). The black pepper, sugars, salt, and paprika make the basis of almost every BBQ spice rub out there. The other ingredients can be tweaked to your own tastes. Try adding some cayenne for heat, or cinnamon or fennel to jazz it up, or some of your favorite chili powder to round out the flavors. The chipotle pepper adds a little bit of heat but more importantly adds a smokey flavor that is otherwise missing. You can also use smoked paprika, if available. I haven't been able to find any in Denmark yet.


Next, we have to prepare the beef. Wash and dry the brisket thoroughly. Trim the fat to about 1 cm (0.5 in) thick. A little bit of fat is necessary on this cut of meat. Brisket is a tough muscle with a lot of connective tissue that only breaks down after long roasting at very low temperatures. The fat layer protects the meat from drying out during the long cooking time.
Brisket is made of two different muscles on the breast of the cow. Try to find a piece that clearly shows those two muscles like mine above. Check out this website for a very detailed explanation of how to pick a good brisket and how to grill it low and slow. (This was one of my favorite references while I was learning how to smoke brisket on a grill.) I have found Danish butchers trim most of the fat off of ALL cuts of meat, including the brisket. My brisket here has a little too much fat trimmed off so there's nothing for me to do.


Liberally coat all sides with the spice rub. For my 1.5 kg (3.3 lbs) brisket, I used about half a cup of dry rub.
Transfer the brisket to a baking dish and add all of the extra spice rub from your cutting board on top. Choose a baking dish that is not too much larger than your brisket. The meat will shrink with cooking by a lot and you do not want the drippings to dry out and burn. I use the largest baking dish that will fit into my toaster oven. Cover and refridgerate overnight if you can, otherwise you can start cooking right away.


Bake uncovered in a 130°C (250°F) oven for 4-8 hours. Plan on about 4 hours for the first 1 kg (~2 lb) and 2 hours for each additional 0.5 kg (~1 lb). The internal temperature of the brisket should be close to 80°C (180°F) when it's done. I don't have a meat thermometer yet here, so I usually test by pulling a little piece off the corner and tasting it for tenderness and flavor. Above is after 2 hours of baking, with 4 more to go.


This is what my brisket looks like when it's done. It has shrunk a lot and released yummy juices. It has a dark spice bark that tastes like the perfect combination of salty, sweet, spicy, and BBQ. You can turn the oven to broil for 2-4 minutes at the end to achieve the caramelization necessary to turn the spice rub into a crunchy bark and get a little bit of "char" that will remind you of a god BBQ.
When the brisket is done, remove it from the oven and cover with foil for at least 20 min. Slice across the grain and serve with some of the drippings as a sauce and a side of your choice.


Here, I'm serving brisket tonight with oven roasted garlic-herb potatoes (recipe found here) and sunchokes (from Diane Morgan's awesome "Roots" cookbook.) Enjoy!

Here is the condensed recipe for oven roasted Texas-style brisket.

Oven Roasted Texas-Style Brisket

Serves 4-6.

Ingredients:

1-2 kg (2-4.5 lbs) beef brisket
0.5-1 cup BBQ Spice Rub

Methods:

Wash and trim the brisket. Leave about a 1 cm (0.5 in) thick fat layer. Dry the brisket thoroughly. Cover all sides with the spice rub (0.5 cup per kg or 2 lb of brisket). Place in a baking dish, with extra spice rub on top, and cover tightly. Refridgerate overnight if possible.

Preheat oven to 130°C (250°F). Roast brisket uncovered for about 4 hours for the first 1 kg (2 lb) and 2 hours for each additional 0.5 kg (1 lb). Remove from oven when the interior has reached 80°C (180°F) or the corner easily pulls off the roast. Cover with foil and let rest for 20-40 minutes.

Strain the drippings through a seive and remove the oil on top to make a sauce. Cut the brisket into 1 cm (0.5 in) slices across the grain. Serve slices of brisket with sauce.


Suvi's BBQ Spice Rub:

1 tbs each of:
     Paprika
     Black pepper
     White sugar
     Brown sugar
     Salt
     Chili powder (optional)
2 tsp each of:
     Cumin
     Coriander
     Oregano
     Chipotle Chili
     Thyme (optional)




Oven Roasted Garlic Potatoes

Serves 4.

Ingredients:

16-24 new baby potatoes
3 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tbs fresh rosemary and/or thyme, finely chopped
2-3 tbs olive oil
salt and black pepper pepper

Methods:

Preheat oven to 180°C (250°F).
Mix all ingredients in a bowl and spread in an even layer on a baking dish. Sprinkle generously with salt (about 1 tsp) and freshly ground black pepper.
Roast in the oven for 1-1.5 hrs or until easily pierced with a fork. Serve with all the roasted garlic and herb bits for added crunch.

To speed up cooking time, potatoes can be parboiled in unsalted water for 10 minutes, then mixed with the remaining ingredients and roasted in the oven for 35-45 minutes. Though still delicious, the potatoes lack a subtle sweet and savory flavor that comes out of slow roasting and will be fluffier in texture.

Try adding chopped carrot or parsnip to the potatoes for an autumn mixed root vegetable dish.

01 November 2013

A kitchen without an oven.

One of the disadvantages of choosing an apartment overseas is finding one with all the features you want. In Aarhus, as a foreigner, there is such a huge housing crunch that just finding an apartment at all can be a feat. We must have written to more than 20 landlords with vacancies in our desired region of the city and heard back from only 5 of them: all with "Sorry, it's already rented". We were lucky and a friend hooked us up with his landlord as soon as a vacant apartment became available in his building. So, we rented the apartment, site unseen, two weeks before we moved halfway across the world, going off of a couple pictures our friend took with his phone from the entryway as the floors were being refinished.

When we got here, we found a gorgeous apartment with 3 rooms, great molding details and a small but cozy kitchen. Everything looked perfect. Upon closer inspection, we realized that the apartment did not have an oven, only a glass cooktop, a toaster, and a microwave. Now, this wouldn't be an issue for the average Dane who apparently eats a lot of open faced sandwiches on rye bread (I know, I'm stereotyping), but not for someone like me who loves to bake and uses an oven for braising and roasting all the time. One of the drawers in the kitchen was even filled with all of the baking ingredients (baking soda and powder, deerhorn salt, potash, vanilla, etc) you need to make Danish cooking and treats. What a horrible way to pour salt on the wound!

Needless to say, one of the first things we had to do was find the largest, affordable toaster oven we could. The one we found is large enough to roast a chicken but not a turkey or a duck. There goes my visions of cooking an American Thanksgiving feast for my new Danish friends. But, I can still make all of my favorite baked dishes like potatoes gratin, lasagne, pulled pork, brownies and cake, the list goes on and on. Now I'm making myself hungry.


Here is our kitchen now, with two toaster ovens (a little one for toast, a big one for baking), a glass cooktop, and our awesome retro bread box. The sink is to the side with separate faucets for hot and cold water. Luckily the hot water is the perfect temperature for washing dishes and the cold water is perfect for drinking. Our kitchen may look like it needs some updating, but the food coming out of it is delicious as is.

So tonight, for my first inaugural recipe, I am braising brisket for 6 hours in my little oven.

An American in Denmark.

My husband and I moved from Los Angeles to Aarhus, Denmark a few months ago. We left behind a city where we could get any type of cuisine any day of the week. From Japanese to Hunan, Indian to Italian, we gain inspiration from restaurants and have successfully recreated many of our favorite restaurant dishes at home in our own kitchen.

 In Denmark, we have not been able to find the diversity of restaurants or ingredients we were used to having at our fingertips. For the first few weeks, going to the grocery store was an adventure in guessing at the translation of products, cuts of meat, and produce. Now, we are learning to adapt Danish ingredients to our style of cooking. This is a collection of some of my favorite recipes, recreated in this foreign land.